The Alba Trails

Fenoglio's work reveals a strong personal bond with his city's river, the Tanaro, a refuge from the adversities of the world whose encounter always ravishes the writer. The opening of the trail that connects the town to the river banks below the overhangs of the stunning Rocche di Barbaresco makes it possible to discover through these inspiring pages a charming natural world and learn about the traditions and humanity that lurked along its banks. The ten stages along the route to Barbaresco are also intertwined with two insights into the relationship between city and river in the urban park overlooking the Tanaro.

On the foothills between Alba and the hamlet of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, the events of love, war and death are intertwined with the passion of the partisan Milton for Fulvia, the protagonists of the novel "Una questione privata (A private affair). In twelve stages along the loop trail that runs along paths and country roads amidst vineyards and farmhouses, we relive the sentimental experiences, the echo of the author's musical passions, the partisan marches and ambushes on the last hill bastions and the dramatic final escape of the novel, recreated in a tension-filled crescendo.

In the fields around the hamlet of San Cassiano, on the outskirts of the town, the battle took place on 2 November 1944 against the forces sent by Mussolini to reconquer the town that had been proclaimed a Partisan Free Republic. Beppe Fenoglio, who fought there in person, bears witness to those dramatic moments in the pages of his first short story “I ventitre giorni della città di Alba” (The 23 Days of the City of Alba) and his novel “Il partigiano Johnny”(Johnny the Partisan). The memory of this significant historical episode is entrusted to a trail in the San Cassiano Green Area, near the imposing San Cassiano Farm, which was the operational centre of the partisan defence system.

Alba was for Fenoglio not only a privileged observatory on the world and the environment in which he was formed as a man and a writer, but also the protagonist of many of his works and a reference point to which he could look out from his beloved Langhe. In the streets of the old town we find sixteen stages along sixteen literary sites, where we can relive, step by step, the works, experiences and moods of the writer, through quotations that reveal his particular view of the city.

The trail unfolds through several branches, creating a network of easy connections between the Corso Europa area and the Tanaro River Park. The route runs along the Tanaro river strip that, from the border with the town of Roddi, joins the trail network leading to Pollenzo, the ancient Roman town of Pollentia founded in the 1st century BC, reaching the area known as Località Vivaro, the site of the Ferrero confectionery industry. The trail continues towards the river, through hazelnut and poplar groves, and then reaches the river strip, where a combination of wooded areas and open spaces offer impressive views of the river and the surrounding area, where it is easy to admire the local fauna and enjoy birdwatching. There is a spacious rest area where you can rest and refresh yourself. It should also be borne in mind that the dense rural road network allows various internal connections to customize the length and duration of your walk.

The trail takes its name from the hill hamlet of Santa Rosalia or Rosaria (a name derived from the holy Rosary). This locality refers to the feud tied to the farmstead of Santa Rosalia, which was given to the city of Alba by King Charles Emmanuel III of Savoy on 28th June 1742. Thanks to the fief, Alba could boast the title of "Countess of Santa Rosalia", with the comital crown on its coat of arms. The trail is easy to walk, with a first flat part between the area of San Cassiano, Strada Cauda, Corso Enotria and Località Rivoli, and a second hilly part that, surrounded by nature and several vineyards, reaches the hamlet of Santa Rosalia. The route continues towards Alba on the Baresane municipal road or, via an alternative route through nature, it descends from Santa Rosalia to Rabagli. At the bottom of the hill, the path rejoins on the left the trail network leading to the castle of Grinzane Cavour, while on the right it climbs up towards the Bernardina hill, a place of historical and architectural interest, today marked by contrasts between traditional architecture represented by the manor house and modern architecture such as the "Acino di vetro (the Glass grape). The hiking itinerary comes to an end as you return from Cantina di Roddi towards San Cassiano. The hilly stretch provides impressive panoramic views of the city of Alba and the surrounding hillside landscapes, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dotted with the many castles that have dominated the hills of the Langhe and Roero for centuries. In the background, on a clear day, the majestic chain of the Alps, stretching from Monviso to Monte Rosa, can be seen.

The trail takes its name from the nearby Comandante farmstead in Santa Rosalia and partly intersects with the Fenoglio trail in San Cassiano. The Fenoglio trails are literary itineraries dedicated to Beppe Fenoglio and represent a way to get to know and relive the places and atmospheres described by the writer in his works. The trail, which is easy to walk, is marked by a flat part near San Cassiano and Strada Cauda and by a hilly part that, plunging into a natural environment amidst hazelnut groves and vineyards, passes the Comandante farmstead and reaches the hamlet of Santa Rosalia - with the option of descending towards the village of San Cassiano and the hamlet of Località Ballerini, or continue along the Bernardina hill, among vineyards and groves, places famous for hunting the prized Alba white truffle – and then return to the departure point at Cantina di Roddi. The hilly stretch provides impressive views of the city of Alba and the Langhe, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with the Alpine chain stretching from Monviso to Monte Rosa in the background.

From Alba continue towards Madonna di Como, at about 50 metres from the crossroads, turn left and climb the hill of Bricco Capre reaching the asphalt road, continue along the ridge on the panoramic stretch, then descend to the left through vineyards and hazel groves passing by the Portinale farmstead to reach S. Rocco d'Elvio.

From Alba continue towards Treviso, Località Boffa, turn onto the Salita Gino Rocca road until you reach the church of Madonna degli Angeli, from here proceed towards Borgo Argantino and then descend to the valley to S. Rocco Seno d'Elvio passing through Località Avolieri.

From Alba continue towards Treiso, turn left at the level crossing, after the steps turn left passing behind the Reinè farmhouse until you reach Altavilla, follow the road downhill and, through the vineyards, go down until you reach the junction with the Barbaresco trail network. You can stop in an equipped panoramic area along the Tanaro river. Turn right and continue until you reach Località Ressia, follow the municipal road and at Località Pertinace go down the steps and continue along the stream until you reach the hamlet of S. Rocco Seno d'Elvio.